Wentlooge Levels

There are two main access points for the Wentlooge Levels’ coast at Parc Tredelerch and Lighthouse Inn.

Starting from Parc Tredelerch, an area of parkland on the outskirts of Cardiff, follow the Wales Coast Path southeast towards the coast.

Heading east along the seawall brings you to two extensive areas of saltmarsh called Rumney Great Wharf and Peterstone Great Wharf. ‘Wharf’ is a medieval term referring to areas of saltmarsh beyond the seawall that were used for grazing. At Rumney Great Wharf a section of Tudor seawall sits behind the modern seawall.

Further east, Peterstone Gout is the main drainage point for freshwater on the Wentlooge Levels. Water falling on the surrounding farmland and bordering upland areas is channeled to the Gout by a complex system of reens and ditches. When the water reaches the seawall, it passes through a tidal gate (the ‘gout’) and out into the estuary. As the tide comes in, water pressure pushes the gate closed, preventing salt water from entering the Levels.

The area seaward of Peterstone Gout is known as Peterstone and Wentlooge Marshes, a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) noted for its bird life, attracted to the marshes by the abundant invertebrates found on the tidal mudflats.

Look for curlew, dunlin, oystercatcher, shoveller and shelduck. The marshes also attract raptors, including Short-eared owl, Peregrine falcon and Merlin. The area is managed by Gwent Wildlife Trust as a nature reserve.

Lighthouse Inn sits just below the seawall on the landward side. Although the Inn is closed at time of writing, there is free parking and a picnic area next to the pub carpark.

From Lighthouse Inn, follow the coast path east passed the West Usk Lighthouse (built 1821) and into Newport, crossing the Usk at the world famous Newport Transporter Bridge (or follow the detour if the bridge is closed).

Caldicot Levels

Crossing to the east side of the River Usk, Newport Wetlands is a great place from which to explore the coast of the Caldicot Levels. This National Nature Reserve covers over 1000 acres and features extensive reed beds, lagoons and an excellent visitors centre and café.

Follow the main trail down to the coast and the East Usk Lighthouse (built 1893). Then head east along the Wales Coast Path towards Goldcliff Pill, one of the main drainage points for the Caldicot Levels.

From Goldcliff Pill, the coastal path takes you on to Goldcliff Point, one of the highest areas along this stretch of the coast. Formerly an island in the marshes, the hill was the site of Goldcliff Priory. Though nothing now remains of the priory buildings, the landscape in this part of the Levels owes much to the medieval monks.

The foreshore at Goldcliff has been extensively explored by archaeologists and contains many well-preserved artefacts, including the remains of an ancient forest that once stood where the estuary now flows, Mesolithic animal and human footprints, and Iron Age buildings and trackways.

Follow the coast path east along the top of the seawall, looking (and listening) for curlew, oystercatchers, and other shore birds feeding on the mudflats at low tide. There are great views across the estuary west towards the islands of Flat Holm and Steep Holm, south towards the Somerset coast, and east towards the great span of the Prince of Wales Bridge.

As you head east, you will pass Coldharbour Pill, Magor Pill, and Collister Pill, where freshwater is discharged from the Levels into the estuary. Magor Pill was the site of a medieval port called Abergwaitha. Although nothing now remains, in 1994, a 13th century boat, now called the Magor Pill Boat, was discovered buried in the mud 500m offshore.

Alongside Collister Pill runs a section of medieval seawall that divided the protected farmland to the west from Caldicot Moor, which remained open to the sea until the 1850s. The land to the east of the Pill is noticeably higher than the land to the west.

After Collister Pill, the coast path heads inland across Caldicot Moor, crossing over the M4 motorway, and on towards the outskirts of Caldicot. At Caldicot, the path turns south, crossing back over the M4 before turning east towards the village of Sudbrook.

The coast path passes through Sudbrook fort, an Iron Age encampment with impressive ramparts, and alongside the tumbledown remains of Holy Trinity church. Look out for the tiny but impressive Sudbrook Interpretation Centre, which tells the fascinating story of the village and the construction of the Severn Tunnel that connects England and Wales.

From Sudbrook, the path takes you on to Black Rock, a small park with stunning views along the estuary. Black Rock has been a crossing point between England and Wales for centuries. In 1864, the Bristol and South Wales Union Railway opened a new rail and steam ferry crossing, with two huge piers either side of the Severn. The steam ferry rail crossing closed in 1886 when the Severn Tunnel opened for regular passenger services, but you can still see the pier’s brick footings at low tide.

Black Rock is also home to a group of lave net fishermen, who fish for salmon using traditional techniques. Look for the fishermen wading through the water at low tide with their ‘Y’-shaped nets.

Sounds of the coast

Listen out for some of the distinctive sounds of the coast as you explore.